Kanonkop Black Label 2015 Launch

kanonkop-coverWell this event is always one for the books. Starting out on the front lawn with a glass of their wonderful rosé (sweet, ripe strawberries forever!) and some genteel music – next a short speech of welcome from the always friendly Mnr Krige and a coupe of words from rockstar winemaker Abrie Beeslaar gave way to the firing of the canon(s).

First a tiny, model canon about the size of a cucumber – the amount of noise it gives off is more than you would think possible. But the big boy (I believe a 1/2-pounder) is what we all came to hear. Think being at ground zero of a thunderclap – earthshaking, and pretty awesome for geeks like me. Not to mention the three-metre flame that comes out the end! Last year I was too busy filming to cover my ears, and they were ringing for some time afterwards.

Next, some tastings of the current vintage of the Cabernet (12) and the Paul Sauer (13) – both obviously very young but still somehow surprisingly accessible were soon followed by the star of the show, the Black Label Pinotage 2015. It has been said that 2015 was a truly wonderful vintage in South Africa, and this certainly shows in the BLP. Sweet fruit with such concentration and purity, backed up by plenty of oak but showing such integration and restraint even at such a young age. This is one impressive wine. Sadly a little rich for my blood but I feel very fortunate to be able to taste it every year.

Taking the show indoors, we were treated to vertical tastings of each of the estate’s wine ranges. I must admit that I avoided the Kadette table, not because it’s a bad wine at all. In fact quite the contrary, but my palette can only take so much before it all starts to taste the same and so I thought it best to move on.

The Pinotage table was next on the list – starting with the 1997 (!). I must be honest, while it was soft and gentle, a medium to light-bodied wine, for me it was a bit lacking the fleshy fruit of youth that I love so much. It had a slightly stinky, sour note to it that reminded me of an old Burgundy, to my mind similar in character to some of the sour beers of Belgium like Rodenbach. Not unpleasant, in fact pleasingly complex. Last year the 1998 was on offer and I found it very similar in character but I also remember liking it more than I liked the 1997 this year. Next was the 2009 and it was on the other end of the spectrum – soft and supple but still with plenty of structure and acidity to see it through many more years in the cellar. There was a younger vintage too, but I skipped it.

A short walk through the cellar, past the barriques and into the Art Gallery brought us to the Cabernet table. I’m a huge fan of their Cab and it’s well-known to age well. First the 1989 (I was six years old when these grapes were harvested) – again a little past its prime for my personal taste but nevertheless impressive in how well it has held up these last 27 years – surprising acidity. Next, the 2001. This I really enjoyed! Soft, supple, smooth and with that warm, soft, lingering finish. To me, (and generalising, of course) the wines of Kanonkop really are at its peak at the 10-15 year old mark.

Upstairs, we were treated to the Paul Sauer – 2002 and 2004. These were both great, but definitely to my taste the 2004 was the superior. Smooth and supple as you’d expect but still with great structure and acidity, the finer nuances really shining through after the extended maturation with everything integrated beautifully. Truly wonderful examples of how well this wine ages.

Last, but certainly not least, the Black Label Pinotage – 2014 and the 2015 current vintage. The 2014 is a superb wine – make no mistake. As already stated, this wine is priced substanatially beyond what I would normally spend on a bottle – but if I had unlimited funds I would buy it. Even just in the year since I tasted it last, the 2014 has mellowed and integrated quite a bit, but it still tastes young. I expect this wine will age extremely well, resulting in a real fine wine experience after a few years. All well and fine, but the 2015 really stole the limelight. What an incredible wine. To think it is a year younger but somehow tastes more complete than the 2014 – softer and more accessible even in it’s youth. Simply sublime.

I’m not sure I’ve  emphasised enough what a spectacular event this is – but not only because of the sheer quality of the wines on show but also because of the tone and manner of the event itself. It’s staffed entirely by the Kanonkop extended family – viticulturists, cellar workers, front desk staff and it seems everyone else who works for the estate was there in one capacity or another making the evening great. The sense of family is a strong one at Kanonkop – evidenced by the wall of black and white photos of each employee on the wall of the tasting room upstairs… even the dogs have a place. Add to that the fact that everyone sits down together for a snoek and plaasbrood braai at the end of the evening underscore the wonderful hospitality… of course washed down with some cracking red. I chose a Pinotage 2005 to drink with dinner, struck up a conversation with some fellow guests at my table and contemplated what a wonderful country we live in… and knowing that I wouldn’t want to to spit anything out that evening, I elected not to drive home.

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